I don’t know yet what I would need that for, but maybe this will develop again sometime in the direction of photogrammetry, so maybe a tool for creating 3D models. So I could take controlled photographs from all sides. Since I just control a stepper motor and the camera with the device, I can imagine to operate it with some kind of a lazy susan. My “oldie” from 2009 can only do that with this tool. If you really need something like that, you will probably go for such a model. I know that there are some modern cameras that already have a focus stacking function built in. I also know that this is not a groundbreaking invention. I have a few ideas, but I was mainly interested in building something like this. To be honest, I don’t really have anything important to photograph with this thing. There you can have a look at everything in detail, and I’m always open for improvements.
#Darkroom photo booth arcade software crack code
I’ve posted the complete project, including the source code and a description of the electronics. Not perfect, though: at the top of the image there are still some artifacts from the processing. This is done by enfuse from the Enblend project. The camera moves away from the subject during the shooting, so the subject gets smaller and smaller. I drag them over to my computer and edit them with two tools: align_image_stack from the Hugin package makes sure that all images are aligned and resized. One minute – and a dance of joy behind the camera – later, 30 pictures are in the can. There are commercial solutions, but I stuck to open source. Of course, you don’t always want to spend half a day clicking around in Gimp, so resourceful developers have written programs that do the job. You then load this stack into an image editor and tinker with it until you have only the parts that are in focus – and thus an image with a significantly extended depth of field. Each with the focus in a different plane. So at some point, someone came up with the idea of focus stacking : you don’t just take one picture, you take a whole stack of pictures.
Nowadays, however, people shoot digitally. “In my day,” that is, in the analog photo world, you couldn’t do much against that. It’s not uncommon to be dealing with millimeters or even fractions of millimeters. One problem when taking macro photos, regardless of which technique you use to go to the extreme, is the lack of depth of field. After entering the EOS world, I bbought an adapter to use the tubes and lenses on the newer camera, then at some point at a photo fair also an old bellows. Simple ones, with M42 connection, but they got me hooked. With my first SLR – an heirloom from grandpa, a full-manual camera from Revueflex – I had already found a set of extension tubes.
Examples of this are the high-speed flash trigger (German only, sorry) I built almost 20 years ago (at that time without a microcontroller (!)), or my darkroom where I pushed the good old Kodak T-Max P 3200 far beyond its limit.Ī topic that has always fascinated me is macro photography. I have always been attracted by the technology and the possibility to explore its limits.
One of my biggest – although in recent years very neglected – hobbies is photography.
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